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Sweet New York Dreams
By : Chanize Thorpe
Photos Fotos J. Kevin Foltz
Whether these delectable treats are called bonbons, pralines or truffles, one thing is certain, at least in New York City: a whole cacao culture has evolved and exploded, from the cobblestone streets of Soho to the tony Upper East Side. Aficionados can satisfy their cravings, be it for rich dark chocolate ganache or a classic whole milk confection.
Chocolate Bar
48 Eighth Ave.; 212-367-7181; chocolatebarnyc.com
Nixing the predictable bar scene, people perch on counter stools or settle in the makeshift lounge at the back of this tiny West Village shop listening to indie rock while sipping ancho chile and cardamom-spiced liquid chocolate. Some prefer to savor a chunky nugget of Salty Pretzel, part of the company's Retro Bar line, which highlights nostalgic flavors like peanut butter & jelly and caramel apple. A patron's smile could be reward enough, but Chocolate Bar takes it further, recently collaborating with 10 legendary '70s and '80s graffiti artists, like Dr. Revolt and Lady Pink, to design wrappers for a new line of candy. A dollar from each bar supports the All-Star project for inner-city youth. Despite these good works, modesty is a universally underlying theme. "We carry good chocolate, we just don't act like it," says a staff member, which, if you really think about it, is a good thing.
Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven
350 Hudson St.; 212-414-2462; mrchocolate.com
This celebrity dessert-making icon's affection for confection is as thick as his French accent, and it shows. Monsieur Torres isn't some licensing figurehead; he can actually be seen in his upscale but accessible Greenwich Village factory store (there's also a Brooklyn outpost) with rolled-up sleeves and chocolate-splashed chef whites. You half-expect him to shout "Voilà!" as he excitedly reveals his latest creations—all made from scratch—like the jumbo chocolate chip cookie that's served hot from the oven and whose sweetness stays on the fingers for hours afterwards. After filling a supermarket-style basket with items that cost as little as $1, you can savor a cup of "Wicked" spicy drinking chocolate in the café-style area where flat-screen televisions broadcast Torres' fact-finding missions to areas like Oaxaca, Chile and Belgium. These days, Torres is impressed with Americans' increasing knowledge about chocolate, likening it to their knowledge about his home country's wine, saying, "Now they know more about both than the French do!" Nonetheless, he manages to keep his edge.
La Maison du Chocolat
30 Rockefeller Center; 212-265-9404; lamaisonduchocolat.com
Ensconced in Rockefeller Center, this haute chocolate Parisian boutique is permeated with the rich aroma of ganache and a somewhat intimidating elegance that's softened by the opera emitting from invisible speakers. Two enormous chandeliers illuminate the endless rows of truffles that use ingredients imported from Caracas to Quito, and tourists ooh-ahh over the finery. Today, they're also swooning over the new delicate macarons (not to be confused with macaroons). At $2, these petit and delicate, chocolate-filled cookies alone will have you at "Bonjour."
Max Brenner: Chocolate by the Bald Man
841 Broadway; 212-388-0030; maxbrenner.com
Upon entering this bustling restaurant, patrons are immediately treated to the sight of two vats of spinning chocolate. The décor, meant to resemble a Willy Wonka-esque laboratory with beakers and ingredient-filled jars, lends to the fun and is an indication of things to come. Max Brenner, who is, he says, "bald by nature, not by choice," is determined to explore chocolate's infinite possibilities, and the overwhelming menu is evidence that he's on his way to finding out. The innovative Suckao is a date pleaser—chunks of chocolate and milk are placed on a tea light-heated dish and then the melted goodness is sucked down with a hollowed stirring spoon. The gooey fun of marshmallow-topped chocolate "pizza" is a hit with the throngs of children who visit the place, and the Popsicle Fondue is more fun than should be allowed in a restaurant. If the food wasn't enough, a small in-house boutique contains several chutes stocked with crunchy waffle balls, and you can purchase cocoa powders from Trinidad and Venezuela to recreate the drinking experience at home.
Teuscher
620 Fifth Ave.; 212-246-4416; teuscher.com
The managers behind Swiss-chocolatier Teuscher eschew many of today's trendy blends. Wasabi mixed with chocolate? No, thanks. Instead, they firmly remain devoted to traditional, high quality goods, whose origins are no mystery. The original champagne truffle is the company's claim to fame, and nearly everyone who descends upon the Rockefeller Plaza flagship store inevitably gravitates towards the distinctive green boxes that they're packed in. The store is small, but the energy, from the international bevy of tourists to the multilingual staff, pours out into streets, which is why you'll often find people peering inside the windows watching the excitement before finally going in. Holidays bring fun, over-the-top decorations (ever seen a two-pound Easter egg?), which can briefly take your attention away only to be brought back when you hear a child yelling "Daddy! I want the pink one!" And you decide that yes, so do you.
Li-Lac
40 Eighth Ave.; 212-924-2280; li-lacchocolates.com
A local favorite since 1923, Li-Lac is the epitome of old-school classic chocolatiers. Simple display cases house perennial favorites—almond bark and chocolate breakup (chunks of a semi-sweet bar). Just about everyone who walks through the West Village shop has a favorite story about the place, usually starting it with "I remember when I was little..." Parents carry on the tradition by buying their budding broods a 45-cent kiddie pop, a plain piece of solid chocolate on a stick. Relaxed and casual, this is the place where people order "a couple of pieces" to go in their signature flower-stamped box or bag. And without apologies, candy is Li-Lac's sole business, no fancy drinks or cute apparel. What you will find is a bit of kitsch, whether it's in the form of gold coins, or a white chocolate Empire State Building and Statue of Liberty.
Vosges Haut-Chocolat
132 Spring St.; 212-625-2929; vosgeschocolate.com
Many use a Vosges (pronounced "vohj") signature sweet Indian curry and coconut naga truffle as an aperitif to an exquisite dinner. Others embrace their chipotle chile and vanilla bean-laced "Aztec Elixir" hot chocolate like a long-lost relative. Among the other savory spices that appear on their deluxe menu of sweets are ginger, black sesame and even balsamic vinegar. For those who'd like a non-edible souvenir, there's clothing for sale with the fitting motto "peace, love and chocolate."
Book your trip today! Visit www.aa.com, call American/American Eagle reservations at 1-800-433-7300, or call your travel agent for more information.
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